Description
Scientifically reviewed and endorsed by: Jacinta Meyers, Principal Scientist, The F.A.C.T.S. Group
Written by: Kacie La, Founder, N-Essentials
Sep 19th, 2026 | 7 minute read
Sep 19th, 2026 | 7 minute read
A rich, essential-oil-free moisturising cream formulated specifically for dry and moisture-depleted skin. Discover how to create this cushioning oil-in-water emulsion with our step-by-step guide.
FORMULATION NOTE: "Barrier-supporting" refers to the cream's moisturising purpose and its ability to help reduce moisture loss. This homemade cosmetic has not been clinically tested or proven to repair a damaged skin barrier or treat eczema or another skin condition.
Intermediate Skin Barrier-Supporting Face Cream Recipe
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Recipe Card
Prep & Details
LEVEL
Intermediate
PREP TIME
45 mins (24h set)
YIELD
100 g
Formula
All formulation ingredients below were available from N-essentials when this recipe was prepared.
Allergen note: The listed Natural Vitamin E Oil contains mixed tocopherols in sunflower oil and is derived from soy. Check current supplier information if you have a soy sensitivity.
Equipment
• Digital scales (accurate to 0.1 g)
• Two heat-safe glass beakers or jugs
• Small saucepan for water bath
• Thermometer
• Mini immersion blender / mixer / whisk
• Silicone spatula
• Narrow-range pH strips or digital pH meter
• Clean 100 g airless pump bottle or jar
• Disposable gloves
• 70% isopropyl alcohol for sanitisation
• Appropriately diluted pH adjustment solution
Method
1
Prepare the workspace: Wash hands and wear gloves. Clean and sanitise workspace, equipment, and packaging with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Allow to air dry completely. Do not use alcohol near open flames.
2
Prepare Phase A: Weigh demineralised water, aloe vera juice, and glycerine into the first heat-safe beaker. Stir until combined.
3
Prepare Phase B: In the second beaker, weigh sunflower oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, Polawax, and cetyl alcohol.
4
Heat both phases: Place both beakers in a water bath over low to medium heat until they reach 70–75°C. Stir Phase B periodically until completely melted. Ensure both phases are at similar temperatures before combining.
5
Form the emulsion: Carefully remove satisfy beakers. Gradually pour Phase B into Phase A while blending until smooth and glossy. Scrape sides and blend again briefly. Stir gently as it cools to prevent air bubbles.
6
Add Phase C: Once the emulsion cools to 40°C or below, add vitamin E oil and Liquid Germall Plus. Mix thoroughly to distribute evenly.
7
Check and adjust pH (Phase D): Once at room temperature, test the pH (Target: 5.0–5.5). Adjust dropwise using diluted citric acid (to lower pH) or diluted sodium hydroxide solution (to raise pH), stirring and re-testing after each drop.
8
Package & Rest: Transfer into sanitised airless pump bottles or containers, label clearly, and allow to set for 24 hours before checking final consistency.
PRESERVATIVE EXPLANATION
This cream contains a large amount of water. Any product containing water can support the growth of bacteria, yeast and mould, even when it looks and smells normal.
Liquid Germall Plus provides broad-spectrum preservation and is suitable for high-water creams and lotions. The 0.5% inclusion rate is within the supplier’s stated range. It must be measured accurately and added to the cream when the temperature is below 40°C.
The preservatives already present in the aloe vera juice protect that raw material in its original packaging. They should not be assumed to preserve the finished cream after other ingredients have been added.
Vitamin E is an antioxidant, not a broad-spectrum preservative. It can help slow oxidation and rancidity of oils, but it cannot replace Liquid Germall Plus.
FORMULATION OBSERVATIONS
Right after mixing the cream it might appear thinner than you would expect. Even so, Polawax and cetyl alcohol will still provide supporting structure for the emulsion as it cools. It is best to assess the final texture after 24 hours.
The finished cream should be:
• Smooth and evenly blended
• Have a medium-rich skin feel and be easy to spread
• Show no signs of separation
The formula is intentionally free from added essential oils and fragrance oils. However, unrefined shea butter, plant oils and vitamin E oil may contribute their own natural colour and aroma.
TROUBLESHOOTING
| Problem | Possible reason | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Oil or water separates | Phases at different temperatures, wax not fully melted, or inadequate blending. | Do not use a separated batch. Heat phases evenly and blend thoroughly during emulsion. |
| Cream is too thin | Has not finished setting or inaccurate weighing. | Wait 24 hours. If still thin, review measurements for next batch. Do not add wax after. |
| Cream is too thick | Too much Polawax, cetyl alcohol, or shea butter. | Check scale accuracy. Apply less; reformulate next batch rather than diluting. |
| Texture is grainy | Raw materials were not heated enough. | Ensure Phase B melts completely and both phases are equal temperature before combining. |
| Cream feels greasy | Too much product applied or skin prefers lighter formulas. | Use a pea-sized amount on slightly damp skin. |
| Cream has air bubbles | Blended too vigorously. | Use shorter bursts or switch to hand whisking as product thickens. |
| Odour, colour, texture changes | Oxidation or microbial contamination. | Discard the entire batch immediately. |
STORAGE AND SHELF LIFE
Store the cream in a tightly closed container in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, heat and humidity. An airless pump bottle is preferable because it reduces finger contact with the product.
For cautious home use, make small batches and aim to use the cream within three months. This is a practical estimate, not a laboratory-verified expiry date. Discard it sooner if it changes in smell, colour, texture or consistency, develops visible growth, or causes unexpected irritation.
Refrigeration is not a substitute for correct preservation and may alter the cream’s texture.
Products intended for sale or broad distribution require appropriate stability, compatibility and preservative-efficacy testing to establish a defensible shelf life and to meet the requirement “safe for use as intended”.
SAFE USE AND WARNINGS
• For external cosmetic use only. Do not ingest.
• Patch-test on a small area of the inner arm for 24–48 hours before facial use.
• Avoid direct contact with the eyes, eyelids and broken or infected skin.
• Stop using the product if burning, persistent redness, itching, swelling or a rash develops.
• Do not use if you are sensitive to any of the ingredients.
• Liquid Germall Plus contains diazolidinyl urea and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. Check its supplier safety information before use.
• Keep ingredients and the finished cream away from children and pets.
• Seek medical advice for severe, persistent or worsening skin symptoms.
DISCLAIMERS
The recipe is intended for general educational and personal do-it-yourself use and does not constitute medical advice; it is not meant to be used for the diagnosis, treatment, curing or prevention of eczema, dermatitis, infection, allergy or any other health condition.
Different people react in different ways when it comes to their skin. Although patch testing helps to lower the risk, it cannot ensure that an irritating reaction or an allergic reaction will not take place.
The safety, stability and performance of a product made at home are all due to accurate weighing, the quality of the ingredients, hygienic preparation, the pH level, the way it is packaged and the conditions under which it is stored. It cannot be guaranteed that a batch prepared outside of controlled manufacturing conditions will be safe.
Anyone who is making this cream for sale must carry out their own assessment of the regulatory requirements and organise appropriate microbiological, preservative-efficacy, stability and packaging-compatibility testing.
First Published: 21 September 2026 | Last Updated: 22 September 2026
Additional Details
FAQ's
Can I leave out Liquid Germall Plus?
Can I leave out Liquid Germall Plus?
No. This is a water-based cream, so it needs an effective broad-spectrum preservative. Without one, bacteria, yeast or mould may grow even when the cream looks normal.
Can I replace the oils or shea butter?
Can I replace the oils or shea butter?
Substitutions can change the skin feel, thickness and stability. Beginners should make the original formula first. Any revised formula should still total exactly 100%.
Why do I need to check the pH?
Why do I need to check the pH?
Checking the pH helps confirm that the cream is within a skin-appropriate pH range and is compatible with the preservative and other ingredients. Do not guess or adjust it with undiluted acid or alkali.
How much cream should I apply?
How much cream should I apply?
Start with a pea-sized amount on clean, slightly damp skin. Use less if it feels heavy and avoid applying so much that the skin remains greasy.
Can this cream be used on acne-prone skin?
Can this cream be used on acne-prone skin?
It may feel too rich for some acne-prone skin. Patch-test first and stop using it if it appears to worsen congestion or irritation.
Can I sell or give away this cream?
Can I sell or give away this cream?
A homemade trial batch should not be assumed suitable for sale. Commercial products need regulatory review plus stability, packaging, microbiological and preservative-efficacy testing.
- SKU:
- RCP-SBFC
